Sunday, December 29, 2013

Vogue 1366, THE PANTS

Well, I've made myself two pairs of Thurlow trousers (they'll be in the Wardrobe shortly) from Sewaholic, and while I'm grateful for the experience, they are not my favorite pants ever.  I seriously envy Thurlows like Lladybird Lauren's closet full of them, but they do not suit me.  Thurlows are designed for a pear-shaped body, and I don't have one.  Between the height and the shaping issues, I spent a LOT of time dinking with the fit and making gazillions of muslins, and the fit is still not what I'd like it to be.  So, I've decided to move on to a new pants pattern.  Behold! Vogue 1366:

I've  been eyeing this pattern ever since it came out, and I finally snagged the pattern on Black Friday.  I made up a muslin, and it fit surprisingly well straight out of the envelope.  The only adjustments I've had to make to it have been adding length (of course), to both the leg and the top, right under the zipper, and making some seam allowance adjustments.

I cut a size 14, which fit me nicely in the hips and legs.  I had major crotch depth and length problems, so I added 3/4" length under the zipper (and another 2" at the knee.  DON'T FORGET to buy extra yardage if you're tall, people).  I also changed all the seam allowances to 1/4" in the crotch and up to the waist band in the rear.  Does that make sense?  I cut a straight size 14 and the just sewed a 1/4" s.a. instead of the standard 5/8"-- no pattern adjusting needed there.

I'm pretty pleased with the muslin, so next comes cutting out in this gorgeous wool from Pacific Fabrics:

It's considerably darker than this in real life.  Sorry!